The production of tsukudani, a traditional Japanese preserved food, continues in the Tsukuda area of Tokyo, where it began over 200 years ago. At a small shop called Tsukushin, father and son Nobuo and Yoshihiro Kobayashi start working at 5 a.m. They cook tuna, shrimp, seaweed, and clams using traditional methods. These ingredients are simmered in a sweet and salty sauce made with seasonings from the Edo period, long before refrigeration was available. Although large factories now make tsukudani in big amounts, the Kobayashis use gas-heated pots and wooden trays to make it in small batches by hand. This way of cooking helps protect the traditional skills and flavors that are part of Japan’s food culture.

The cooking must be done carefully. The ingredients are stirred only a little to avoid breaking them. Yoshihiro Kobayashi says tsukudani is like jam because it is rich in flavor and easy to eat. People usually eat it with steamed rice, miso soup, or chazuke—a dish where hot tea is poured over rice. It is also used in rice balls and lunch boxes. Today, there are new products like tsukudani-flavored snacks. However, producers say that keeping the traditional way of cooking is important. Shops like Tsukushin help preserve the cultural and culinary traditions of Japan.