In the northwestern corner of Spain, the Ribeira Sacra region is home to a unique winemaking tradition known as “heroic viticulture.” Local winegrowers, with the assistance of Moldovan laborers, handpick grapes on steep, terraced hillsides overlooking deep valleys. This method is essential to producing the region’s prized wines, including aromatic varieties like Mencia, Godello, and Loureira. The area, which takes its name from the abundance of medieval churches and monasteries, is distinguished by its mineral-rich slate soil and cool climate, factors that enhance the quality of its wines. Fernando Gonzalez, owner of the Algueira winery in the village of Doade, described this form of winemaking as having a strong sense of identity, emphasizing that it is entirely reliant on human labor. Gonzalez noted that the process is not just heroic but also dramatic, as it requires a deep personal commitment from those involved.

The region’s wine industry nearly vanished in the early 20th century due to an infestation of the Phylloxera pest, which devastated local vineyards and triggered poverty and mass emigration. However, after the death of Spanish dictator Francisco Franco in 1975, the government began offering subsidies to farmers to help restore vineyards that had survived the pest. This effort has led to the revival of Ribeira Sacra’s wine industry, earning international recognition. British-Spanish wine writer Harold Heckle stated that the region’s wines hold significant cultural and historical value, appealing to affluent wine connoisseurs who appreciate not only the taste but also the heritage behind the product.