The centuries-old tradition of making fish sauce in Vietnam, known locally as nuoc mam, has been passed down through generations in small coastal villages. One such village is home to the Bui family, who have produced this condiment for four generations. After the Vietnam War ended 50 years ago, Bui Van Phong chose to stay in his village to preserve this cultural craft rather than leave the country like many others. Today, his son, Bui Van Phu, continues the family business. Fish sauce from this region has been officially recognized as part of the nation’s heritage, and experts assert that its value lies not only in taste but also in cultural and historical significance. However, recent threats such as overfishing, climate change, and competition from large-scale industrial producers are making it more difficult to maintain traditional practices. Rising sea temperatures and deoxygenation have reduced the size and availability of anchovies, a critical ingredient in fish sauce.

To produce high-quality fish sauce, anchovies must be caught during peak season between January and March near Da Nang. These fish are then mixed with sea salt and fermented for up to 18 months in large clay barrels. However, securing the right kind of anchovies has become increasingly difficult due to declining fish populations and elevated costs. According to a 2021 scientific assessment, even under moderate climate conditions, over 20% of fish stocks in the South China Sea could be lost. Furthermore, industrial fishing techniques and territorial disputes in the region have worsened the situation. Although Vietnam aims to strengthen its global market share — expected to grow to $29 billion by 2032 — experts warn that without sustainable solutions, the authenticity and economic future of traditional fish sauce production remain precarious.