For centuries, Vietnamese coastal villages have passed down the traditional method of making fish sauce, or nuoc mam. In one of these villages, the Bui family has been producing this staple for four generations. After the Vietnam War ended 50 years ago, Bui Van Phong chose to remain in his village to preserve the craft, while many others left the country. His son, Bui Van Phu, now carries on the family legacy. Today, fish sauce from this region is officially recognized as part of Vietnam’s cultural heritage. Experts say it holds not just culinary value but also deep historical and cultural meaning.

However, this tradition is facing serious threats. Overfishing, climate change, and competition from large-scale producers are putting pressure on small, traditional makers. Rising sea temperatures and low oxygen levels in the water are reducing the number and size of anchovies — the key ingredient in fish sauce. These anchovies are best caught between January and March near Da Nang, then mixed with sea salt and fermented in clay barrels for up to 18 months. But catching quality anchovies is becoming harder and pricier. A 2021 study warned that even under moderate climate scenarios, over 20% of fish stocks in the South China Sea could vanish. Without sustainable solutions, the future of traditional fish sauce is at risk.